BANDIPUR- A hidden gem of Newari culture of Nepal

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Namaste! With India set to reopen its skies for the scheduled commercial international flights from 27 March 2022 and with almost all restrictions related to Covid in India are either already been phased out or are on the way out, we are soon hoping to see an end to this long phase of restricted travel. Let’s all of us also pray for a swift end to the conflict in Ukraine and for the people suffering due to the same.

Meanwhile, in this edition we take you through a quaint town in Nepal “BANDIPUR- A hidden gem of Newari culture of Nepal”.

'A blessing in disguise’, a proverb that means a lot for this tiny hill town of Bandipur, how? In this edition you will discover how the initial decline in popularity helped this town standing distinct forever. The tranquil and serene town in the lap of hills is a pause in time. A short drive through the forest, off the highway, will bring one to this town still holding its old world charm. Hold on right here, as one will have to abandon the vehicle before entering this town. Vehicular movement, even the motorbikes, are restricted so as to completely get loose in the laid back lifestyle of this pristine town. Walking through the cobblestoned alleys, one will find Newari houses on both sides of the lanes with nicely carved large wooden windows and balconies. The colorful bougainvillea peeping out of these beautiful balconies and leaning towards the street and Victorian styled lamp posts to light up the streets in the dark, just adds to the beauty. Within a couple of minutes, one will start having a feeling of walking in a small European hamlet until the typical Newari architecture of the brick houses and random temples, which are built in Pagoda style are noticed. Interestingly, the town never had a colonial rule, yet its resemblance will take one back to the old age colonial era.

While the town still exhibits its old flavour, let's go back to the 18th century when it came into existence. The strategic location of the Kathmandu valley attracted Shah Dynasty to capture the three kingdoms- Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. Owing to the change in regime and spread of malaria in the region, Newari traders from Bhaktapur migrated to this place. Before them it was mainly inhabited by the Magars, the third largest ethno linguistic group in Nepal. The Newars also brought the valuable Newari art with them and settled here. Soon, it became a trading hub due its location on the Indo-Tibetan trade route. Gradually, they started building beautiful houses and temples in Newari style. The town prospered until 1970s when a new highway between Kathmandu and Pokhara was built which bypassed this beautiful town and its glory started getting faded away. The merchants soon abandoned the town, turning it almost into a ghost town. What looked like an end to many was the beginning of a new chapter- a blessing in disguise.

Located off the vehicular route, the town's authenticity remained intact and unaffected by the modernization. While in most of the Kathmandu valley, Newari structures were getting replaced with modern structures, the time in Bandipur seems to have paused. The structures here are still well preserved, though most of them are converted into boutique hotels or cafes. A walk in the main bazaar is an experience in itself.

Far from the digital revolution, here one may catch the glimpse of locals enjoying traditional games like gumba, kids spinning the scrapped cycle wheel skilfully as if driving a car or enjoying swings, or playing cricket in the peaceful streets.

The locals will be happy to let the visitors take part in the games. One may choose to just sit and relax to enjoy the breathtaking vistas and laid back attitude of the place.

ACTIVITIES TO INDULGE DURING A VISIT TO THIS QUAINT TOWN:

What else could be the best setting for any book reader? Well, inhabitants might have realized the need centuries ago, and Padma Library was established. Commissioned by the Rana ruler, this small library is housed in an 18th century Newari home. It has a collection of historical books of the Rana kings (1846-1951), including a few English ones. With carved windows and wooden beams the architecture of the library is striking.

Just across the library, one can admire the intricate carvings on the walls of Bindebasini temple.

In today’s time when water is available at the turnaround of a tap, here one will still find people flocking at Teen Dhara to collect water for their daily usage.

This age-old perennial source of water has been channelizing water for the inhabitants of Bandipur through natural streams. Contrary to its name (Teen Dhara = 03 streams), one may see more than three taps here, which might have been added later.

A flight of stairs from the main street will take to an interesting temple known as Khagda Devi, revered highly by the Newar community of Bandipur. The structure of the temple resembles a local house. Instead of an idol, the main deity here is a sword (Khagda), which gives the name to the temple as well. It demonstrates woman power where Khadga Devi means the goddess of sword. The legend has it that this sword was gifted to 16th century king, Mukunda Sen, by Lord Shiva.

Once a year, the temple celebrates the Dashain festival or Khagda yatra. During the festival a procession is carried out in the town with the sword. The temple surroundings also provide enthralling views of the mountain ranges and the Bandipur village.

Tundikhel: This man-made plateau had seen merchants trading off their goods in the old days. Gorkha soldiers also honoured the ground with parades. The ground, despite its commercial usage in the past, is now being used as a football playground. Tundikhel can also be visited to enjoy the beautiful views of mountain ranges like Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Machhapuchhare, Ganesh Himal and Langtang ranges and glittering sunrise and sunset.

Insider Tip: Around March- April, one can enjoy an exciting festival in Tundikhel, which is known as Ghode (Horse) Yatra. As the name suggests Horse race and many other sports takes place at Tundikhel on this day in collaboration with Nepal army. The festival also coincides with another festival ‘Pahan Charhe’, where in deities are carried on palanquin (khat) along with traditional music. Interesting thing about festivals in Nepal is the mythologies and legends behind them, which shows that modernization has not yet affected the old traditions.

Another interesting spot for capturing picturesque sunrise and sunset views is the Gurungche hills which can be accessed with a 30 minutes hike from the main town. The locals also throng this hilltop for the Thani Mai Temple. This place offers a 360-degree view of the surroundings and one can enjoy beautiful sunrise and sunset.

Another interesting spot to visit here is the Silkworm farm that also has a silk production factory. Here one can watch the process of silk production as well as get a chance to visit the Mulberry plantations, which are laid out in order to feed the silkworms. The worms are usually reared here in August-December and March-May.

Hike to Siddha cave: With a total walking distance of around 12 kms, this 03 hours hike through a hilly and forest terrain takes one to the largest cave of Nepal and 2nd largest cave in South Asia, known as Siddha cave.

The cave is around 50 meters high and 437 meters deep. Discovered in 1997, no one knows the origin of this cave. It is believed that a local saint known as Siddha Baba used to meditate here, hence the name of the cave. Inside the cave, there are many interesting natural rock formations.

The Cave is also called "Gateway to Heaven”, and it is believed that anyone entering the cave will have all their sins washed away.

Walk to the Magar Village of Ramkot: Lying approx. 8 kms from Bandipur, this beautiful village can be reached with a 02 hour easy (one way) and beautiful walk. On a clear day, it offers a beautiful view of 05 different mountain ranges namely Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Manaslu, Langtang, and Ganesh himal, thus making it one of the most exciting walks here.

The walk ends at the Ramkot village, a typical Magar settlement with traditional old roundhouses, untouched by modern development. This walk is highly recommended for the photography buffs.

Known as the “Little European village” of Nepal, Bandipur is known for its traditional village architecture, beautiful Himalayan views, laid back atmosphere and country side walks. We invite you to come and explore this amazing town with us while on your next trip to Nepal.