HAMPI – A STORY NARRATED BY STONES & BOULDERS

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Namaste! The news about the new Covid-19 variant omicron came as a bolt from the blue, when things were gradually shaping up for the opening of overseas travel. In view of the new variant which was first traced in South Africa, Indian government has put its plans on hold to resume the scheduled commercial international flights from 15 December 2021. We shall update you as and when we receive new notification with regards to the recommencement of scheduled commercial international flights to / from India.

Meanwhile, in this edition we take you through another momentous journey focusing on “Hampi – A story narrated by stones & boulders.”

A history buff’s delight, this temple town, was the capital of erstwhile mighty Vijayanagar Empire. The magnificent ruins of forts, palaces, temples and markets in the city dating back to 15th century, narrate many stories of the bygone eras. The city founded by Harihara & Bukka in 1336 reached its pinnacle under the great king Krishnadeva Raya before finally falling into the hands of the rulers of Deccan in 1565. The city was strategically located with huge rocky hills on three sides & river Tungabhadra on the fourth side, making it an ideal location for a capital city.

One will be amazed to see the best defense systems of those times in the empire. The massive walls, the watchtowers located strategically & huge gateways through which even the elephants could pass, all contributed to the robust military system which was one of the main reasons why this kingdom was almost invincible for such a long time. The system was so designed that if there was an attack from any side, the soldiers at the watchtowers would immediately be able to alert everyone about the attack.

One of the reasons of Hampi’s prosperity was flourishing trade with Persia & Europe. The account from travelers like Abdur Razzaq & Domingo Paes who compared this city with Rome gives an idea of grandeur of this city at its peak.

With its amazing monuments, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a huge “open air museum” displaying best of the architecture and religion. These structures are a testimony of the excellence in architecture along with the grandeur at the time when the Vijayanagar Empire was at its peak. Watch a glimpse of Hampi in this short video. Apart from the ruins, another striking feature of Hampi is the innumerable huge boulders spread across the city giving it a unique look & feel. These huge boulders make one think how did these big rocks manage to reach the city or from where did they originate?

The story behind Hampi Boulders
Apart from temples, Hampi boulders are extraordinary. They are out of the world! Everyone who visits Hampi has the same opinion. Let’s dig deeper into the origin of these boulders.

There are two main theories – One arising from mythology & the other one from geology.

Mythology connects the city of Hampi to the Hindu Epic Ramayana. Kishkindha, the modern day Hampi, is believed to have been the monkey kingdom with Bali & Sugreev (characters in Ramayana) as the princes. As per the legend, the princes had a severe fight in which Bali forced Sugreev out of the kingdom but could not kill him. When Lord Rama reached monkey kingdom on his way in search of his wife Sita, Sugreev offered to help him and sent his general Hanuman in search of Sita to Sri Lanka.

Later the entire monkey army was sent to Sri Lanka to get Sita released from Ravana. In return Lord Rama helped in killing Bali and reinstalled Sugreev as the King of Monkey kingdom.

The fight between Bali and Sugreev was so intense that huge boulders were thrown at each other thereby resulting in these huge boulders which are currently spread across Hampi.

Another theory says that these boulders were used by monkey army to cross the sea while going to Sri Lanka. Whatever be the truth, the temples & other evidences across Hampi makes everyone believe that this is a more likely theory than the one offered by geologists which say that the boulders are a result of erosion of giant granite monoliths.

SOME OF THE INTERESTING STRUCTURES AND ACTIVITIES IN HAMPI:

VITTALA TEMPLE

Dedicated to Lord Vittala (a manifestation of Lord Vishnu), this temple is the epitome of architectural excellence reached during the time of Vijayanagara Empire. The sheer excellence with which this temple including its ornate pillars has been made speaks volumes of skills of the sculptors of those times. Numerous hallways, gateways, towers and pavilions make this temple an interesting place for visitors.

The iconic stone chariot (one of the three stone chariots in India, the others being in Konark & Mahabalipuram) in this temple with wheels carved out of stone is an architectural marvel.

The mysterious musical pillars which emanate ‘SA RE GA MA..’ (notes of Indian Music) when tapped, will pleasantly surprise anyone.

THE KINGS BALANCE
Tulapurushandana or King’s balance as it is called is another interesting structure. This archway like balance was used to weigh the Vijayanagara Kings in gold & other precious stones.

This gold & the precious stones were then given to the priests of the temple. This process is still followed by Hindus as it is considered to cure any disease which is not curable by medicines.

ACHYUTA RAYAS TEMPLE
Amongst the last grand temples to be consecrated was the Achyuta Rayas temple. Dedicated to Lord Tiruvengalanatha (a form of Lord Vishnu), this temple is probably the most advanced among all the temples in Vijayanagara empire.

The Vijayanagar dynasty’s emblem which has a boar, the sun, a sword & the moon on it, can be seen on the entrance gateway. Apart from the central shrine, the intricately carved pillars in the courtyards of the temple will surely mesmerize.

BHIMA’S GATE
An example of a robust military system, Bhima’s gate was very intelligently designed to create a blind spot for the invaders. The unique feature of this structure is that no one can cross this gateway in a straight line! The gateway is adorned with beautiful carvings & murals.

VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE
Amongst the oldest functioning temples of India, this temple is believed to exist since 7th century AD. It was under the rule of King Krishna Deva Raya II that the temple seems to have expanded widely encompassing beautiful pillared halls & huge gateways. Dedicated to Hindu God Lord Shiva, it is the holiest of all temples in Hampi.

The giant entrance tower in east, also known as the eastern gateway, will fascinate the most which is a 9 storied tower with a pair of horn like projections. A must visit in the complex is Ranga Mandapa with ceiling having some original Vijayanagar paintings.

During a visit one should not miss to take blessing of temple elephant who usually greet the people entering from eastern gateway!

Insider Tip: Visit Hampi in the month of March / April and be a part of the Virupaksha chariot (car) festival celebrated at the temple. The annual festival marks the divine ritual marriage between the deities Virupaksheshwara & Pampa. A giant wooden chariot (temple car) with image of god & goddess pulled along the streets of Hampi Bazaar is the main attraction of this colorful procession.

HAMPI BAZAAR & RIVERSIDE RUINS
Located in front of Virupaksha temple, Hampi Bazaar was a bustling market at one point of time. Merchants, not only from the surrounding areas but also from other countries used to come and sell their products here. There is a reference to this bazaar in traveler Abdur Razzaq’s account as well where he mentioned that people used to sell semi precious stones & diamonds amongst other things. Even cows & horses were traded here! Though the market is not as impressive today as it used to be, it is still functioning as a market where one may find vendors selling traditional costumes, antique coins etc.
Insider Tip: Follow the path that connects the ancient Hampi Bazaar to the Vittala temple to discover a number of shrines, carved artifacts and ruins of ancient structures which are dotted along this path.

ROYAL ENCLOSURE
Royal enclosure, the huge fortified area, was the seat of power of Vijayanagara kingdom. This area is dotted with ruins of a number of a structures like palace bases, underground temples, Royal stables etc.

One of the most prominent structure here is Mahanavami Dibbaa or the Dussehra platform which was used by the king to watch the parade during the Dussehra celebrations.

HAZARA RAMA TEMPLE
The most intricately carved temple, Hazara Rama temple was the private temple of the king. The carvings depicting stories from Hindu Epic Ramayana are very impressive and are sure to keep one engrossed for a long time.

The four black polished pillars in the inner shrine, adorned with chiseled bas reliefs of Hindu gods like Ganesha, Mahishasurmardini, Hanuman & forms of Vishnu, are worth a visit.

PUSHKARINI OR STEP WELL
The ancient step wells are called ‘Pushkarinis’ in Karnataka. They are not as elaborate as the ones found in western India but they are still the architectural marvels in themselves. Out of many Pushkarini’s in Hampi the most intricate is the one located in the ruins of Royal enclosures of Hampi.

Usage of blocks of black schist stones is the unique feature of this Pushkarini. This tank is perfectly symmetrical & is a classic example of the mastery of local artisans.

ELEPHANT STABLES

Gajshala or the elephant stables were the shelter for the royal elephants. One of the impressive structures in royal enclosure, these are a series of 11 stables with dome shaped roof.

THE AMAZING AQUEDUCTS & CANAL SYSTEM OF HAMPI

What one will be very impressed with is the meticulous town planning of Hampi. The palaces, temples, markets, and houses everything was well planned & executed. The water management system of the city makes one wonder how proficient these people were in engineering. Keeping the welfare of people in mind, aqueducts & tanks were constructed throughout the city so that the people didn’t had to go to the river to fetch water rather the water would reach every household through the perfect system of aqueducts & water canals which crisscross through the whole city.

An aqueduct, unlike a canal is raised above the ground like a pipeline. Hampi was at an elevation from Tungabhadra River, which was at a lower height. The challenge was to bring the water through these aqueducts from a low elevation to a high elevation.

They achieved this troublesome exploit by making a gating system or gate-locking system, whereby water was sent from one chamber to another chamber and lifted to the aqueducts and sent to the tanks.

Though most of the aqueducts are in ruins now, one will be able to guess the scale of aqueducts from Bukka’s aqueduct.
Insider Tip: The best way to explore this historical town is by bicycles as it allows soaking in the history of this ancient place at own pace thus making the experience much more interesting. Our local guides who know the place inside out will enhance this experience with their knowledge of cycling routes & interesting tales / stories.

BOULDERING IN HAMPI
With its giant boulders that are split apart vertically, Bouldering in Hampi is an experience in itself. Whether an amateur or an experienced boulderer, there are ideal difficulty levels available for all.

WILDLIFE AROUND HAMPI
For the wildlife enthusiasts, Daroji Bear Sanctuary is just apt. There are high chances to spot Indian Sloth bears here. Some beautiful species of birds & other wildlife are bonus.

One can also take a trip to Matanga Hills & Nava Vrindavan to spot birds. Amongst the most famous ones frequenting the area are Painted Sandgrouse, Painted Spurfowl, Indian Eagle Owl & Yellow throated Bulbul. The lucky ones may also spot the elusive Leopard.

LAKKUNDI TEMPLES & PUSHKARINI

A trip to the forgotten village of Lakkundi or Lokki Gundi, about 100 km from Hampi, is a delight for someone who is keen to explore the surroundings and see some more rare pieces of history. This village has more than 100 ruined temples & sacred wells known as Pushkarinis. Though not all temples have stood the test of time, there are few which are in good shape. Kashivishvanatha temple with intricate designs on the shikhara & doorways stands out amongst all. The exquisitely carved pillars of the temples will leave one speechless. Brahma Jinalaya, a Jain temple is dedicated to Lord Mahavira. There is a 4 feet tall statue of Lord Mahavir in the main sanctum. The intricately carved doorway reflects the perfection of the artisans. The other examples of master craftsmanship which will attract attention in this temple are the four faced statutes of Hindu God Brahma & Goddess Saraswati.

Inhabited since pre-historic times, the historical antiquity of the Hampi region can be traced back to the Mauryan period, (322BCE – 182 BCE). Today the city stands as a mute spectator to its past glory and boasting of many beautiful structures still standing tall and showcasing the unique art and architecture of the Vijayanagara period. With us, the itinerary is not just a travel route or a trip. We design, conceptualize and handcraft every journey for you. Our bespoke itineraries and curated experiences in different destinations are what make for those memorable travel moments.